Professional dock seal installation typically requires a two-person crew with lift equipment and takes 3–5 hours per door. Depending on method, region, and complexity, expect to pay $2,200–$6,000 per door fully installed.
Install Only- purchasing materials direct and hiring a contractor for just the installation typically runs $1,100–$3,200; these savings come from eliminating the estimated 30%-60% contractor markup on product.
DIY You could also do it yourself, whether installing new or replacing sets and pieces you would be looking at a fairly simple installation.
Note: When getting quotes, ask your contractor to itemize labor, equipment, and travel separately so you have a clear picture of costs.
Low
High
Crew
2 workers
2 workers
On-site time
3–5 hours
3–5 hours
Labor
$120–$350
$330–$800
Equipment
None (ladders)
Scissor lift or boom lift: $150–$700/day
Travel (1–2 hrs portal-to-portal)
$75–$150
$200–$500
Materials
$815–$1,300
$815–$1,300
Total (w/ contractor markup)
$1,800–$2,900
$2,200–$5,500
When getting quotes, ask your contractor to itemize labor, equipment, and travel separately so you have a clear picture of costs. Ladder installation carries greater risk of injury and is not recommended.
Find Your Dock Seal
Matching Dock Seal Configurations
Select dimensions to view available configurations
Installation of a dock seal is a simple process requiring tools readily available in most facilities. Within this guide, we cover the basic steps and precautions for installing your loading dock seal. For more details, see our Dock Seal FAQ or request a quote.
Features:
High grade 40 oz vinyl material.
Yellow guide stripes offset 3” from inside edge of verticals provides higher visibility ensuring accurate docking.
Pressure treated wood backing is rot resistant, painted black, and chemically bonded to the high density foam used for the cushion
All Dock Seals are designed to accommodate your slope whether it is a positive or negative grade
Tapered bottom reduces pinching between trailer and dock bumpers when compressed.
Curtain model headers are coupled with wedged top verticals to inhibit water accumulation
Dock Seal Parts
DOCK SEAL COMPONENTS
(9) Angle brackets and (9) flat or angle brackets per set.
(18) Lag bolts for mounting angles to wood backer; Anchors for securement to the wall are not provided
(2) Verticle Pads with vent pockets
(1) Header Pad with vent pockets or Curtain Header
Brackets for securement to the wall have two hole displacements. The smaller diameter holes are for anchoring to the seals backer board via Lag screws provided with the dock seal hardware.
The side with the larger diameter hole is to be used for securement to the wall. Anchor sleeves are not provided due to the variety of loading dock wall types, be sure to use fasteners that suit your application. When installed the brackets must be positioned so they anchor to firm support on either the door frame or building wall. Securment to metal buildings will be explained further down.
Dock Seal Installation points
DOCK SEAL VERTICAL INSTALLATION
Secure the angle brackets to pocket side of each vertical using the provided lag bolts. Next measure the width of your header and use this measurement to determine where the outside of each vertical should be mounted; Note: standard seal sets typically have the inside edge of the verticals flush with the opening. When mounting the vertical ensure the base is flush with the bottom of your door opening. ALWAYS BE SURE TO HAVE THE VENT POCKET OPENING DIRECTED TOWARDS THE GROUND.
Once your vertical has been secured via pocket side angles secure the 3 flat or angle brackets on the inside of the vertical. The installer must provide fasteners for wall securement. POSITION THE BRACKETS WITH FIRM SUPPORT ON THE DOOR FRAME OR BUILDING WALL.
Note: When anchoring into concrete remember to drill your countersinks deeper than than the intended anchor penetration.
Mounting Dock Seal to Metal buildings
INSTALLATION OF COMPRESSION SEALS ON METAL BUILDINGS
If installing your dock seal on a metal building Keep in mind the securement brackets should be anchored to the buildings frame/struts wherever possible. In some cases it may be necessary to thru-bolt the outside brackets; if this is the case we recommend using 3/8" bolts.
The ideal method of securement on a metal building is to anchor through the steel supports. In most situations you will have two supports readily available to mount the verticals to. If there is only one cross support secure the vertical by bolting through the metal skin per the above drawing. We also advise, space permitting, that installers place one angle at the base of the vertical anchoring into the foundation rather than the steel building.
If the outside edge of the vertical falls on a low spot of an irregular metal surface, you can shim the gap between the vertical and the skin with 1 1/2” thick lumber.
Usually the header of the compression seal will not pose a problem. The C-shaped channels that make up the door frame of the building, normally continue up the wall over the door. Using these two anchor points typically provides satisfactory results.
STANDARD HEADER INSTALLATION (CURTAIN OPTIONAL)
Secure (3) angle brackets to the header side with no pockets, this will be the top side of the header when installed. Place the header on the verticals so the ends are even with the ouside of the vertical. Once you have secured the top brackets, secure the base of the header with the remaining 3 flat or angle brackets.
Liberal caulking above the header is recommended.
Curtain Option: Curtain should hang down in front of the verticals. The curtain length is determined by the dock survey information supplied to the factory.
Foam Dock Seal Header
Curtain Dock Seal Header
CURTAIN HEADER INSTALLATION
Secure three angle brackets to the 4" side of the header securement board; make sure to not put these on the wrong side. Once the angles have been attached rest the header board on the top of the verticals so the ends are even with the outside of the verticals and secure to the wall. Standard installations should end up with the base of the header board flush with the door opening.
Bring the top of the header over the verticals so the metal support pipe is at the front of the verticals. Let the MC Curtain drop down in front of the verticals.
Using the flat plates secure the base of the header board to the door opening. If your verticals are set to have the header rest higher than the opening use the provided alternative angle brackets.
At each end of the curtain, the attached rubber tie-down straps should be taken straight back to the backing board and attached with lag screws and the washers provided. The tie-down strap should have slack in it to allow for movement of the header curtain.
Liberal caulking above the header is recommended.
ADJUSTABLE CURTAIN HEADER INSTALLATION
Place the adjustable curtain header on top of the verticals with the upright board (3 1/2” side of the 2x4) against the building, and the flat 2x4 pulley board at front of vertical.
Be sure vinyl is between board and building. Attach board to building wall with 6 angle brackets provided, three outside and three inside.
Let curtain drop down outside of the verticals. Attach ropes to loops sewn into bottom of the header curtain and thread ropes through pulleys to right side of curtain. NOTE: DO NOT TIE THE ROPES TOGETHER.
Attach rope cleat to the wood backing of the vertical, approximately 6’ from the dock floor.
Liberal caulking above the header is recommended.
Adjustable Header Curtains
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